The first step was to cut the mounting brackets for the tank from the frame rails.  I found it easiest to first make a horizontal cut across the brackets right along the bottom of the frame rail.  This cut about the right amount off the bracket and made it easier to cut and grind the remaining pieces off  the frame rail.  The amount cut off does not have to be exactly 2½", nor does it have to be precise.  You have a lot of room to work with for the final re-positioning of the brackets once everything is cleaned up with the grinder.  Making the first cut along the bottom of the frame rail is easiest and is about the right amount.

After the brackets and the frame rails are cleaned up, bolt the brackets to the tank as they normally do and maneuver the whole shebang up underneath the truck. 

I located it at the same point front to back in the truck and just lifted it vertically.  The limit comes when both the seam on the passenger side rear of the tank hits the frame and the long metal tube crossing over the top of the tank hits the body.  Leaving about a ¼" or so gap in these areas yields a lift of about 2½" for the tank.

Once you get it into position, spread the brackets so that they rest against the inside of the frame rails.  You have a little bit of room to work with so it shouldn't be difficult.  Also try to position it so that the bottom of the tank will be parallel with the ground after the truck is back on its own feet again.  It'll actually point downward a little bit while the rear is up on the jack stands.

Carefully tack weld the brackets to the frame and tack in a support on the bottom of the brackets as well.  Make sure they're good and solid as you don't want them to move at all after you remove the tank and you're welding them up for good.

Unbolt the tank and move it out of the way.   The whole process of taking the tank in and out is a bit tricky because of the filler hose being in the way.  It would be helpful to have 3 or 4 hands position the tank and snake the hose up over the frame rail, but it can be done by one person with a floor jack and a small jack stand to help steady the tank.

With it out of the way, you can have at it and weld the brackets up good and solid.  I used pieces of scrap ¼" steel to brace the bottom of the brackets as they were stock.  This ends up being a more favorable position as well as you don't have as much leverage working against the brackets.

It pays to be a bit paranoid here.  The fuel tank is quite heavy when full (probably about 200 lbs) and you definitely don't want it coming loose.  I welded all the way around the bracket as well as the braces.

This is another shot of the bracket and tank in place.  I went through later and cleaned up the welds and painted the entire area to prevent rust.

Also notice the missing spring in the pack.  A big no-no.  See my notes on the spring-over lift for details.

Here's the final result after everything but the skid plate is back in place.  You can see quite clearly the amount the tank has been raised and the extra ground clearance in my opinion is badly needed in this area.  I've severely bashed the stock skid plate in from dropping the wheels off ledges.  This is a mod I'd seriously consider installing a body lift for.  But I wouldn't go over 2" on a body lift.  3" makes me kind of leery and it won't let you raise the tank any more anyway as it hits the frame as well as the body.

The final stage is to build the new skid plate.  The stock one is a bit flimsy and it won't really fit too well after raising the tank anyway.  Detail of the new heavy duty armor is here.

Created by: Dan Houlton
This page was last updated on 14 Apr 2004
Home